Cabo Verde, or Cape Verde as it was known, is a fabulous, young country, only gaining independence in 1975. It boasts 10 inhabited islands just off the west coast of Africa, in the Atlantic Ocean. The islands vary dramatically, but most tourists head for Sal and Boa Vista, the most tourist-oriented islands with amazing beaches, warm temperatures year round (even at night, it rarely falls below 18 degrees and the average LOW temperature is 21) and crystal clear seas that are warm enough to swim in year round. The heat is allayed by a breeze that sometimes becomes a strong wind, so it’s a great location for surfing of all kinds and is a mecca for kite surfers.
There are some great hotels run by RIU, Melia and TUI that most package holiday makers head for. But many people write about their disappointment with some aspects. Why? Well here’s a list of 10 myth busters to help you know what to really expect in Cabo Verde, to help manage your expectations and decide whether it’s the right destination for you.
1. It’s not 5*: lots of reviews and Facebook posts say “this is not 5 star”. This is Africa, it’s a developing country. 5* here *MAY* be closer to 3* in more developed destinations such as the Middle and Far East, the USA and parts of Europe.
2. Everything’s more expensive than I thought: these islands are about 630km off the coast of Africa, at Dakar, Senegal. Sal and Boa Vista are dry tropical or desert islands. Very little can be grown here and there are no cows or sheep (great donkeys though on Boa Vista). Almost everything has to be imported. If you want steaks, treats from home … expect to pay European prices. BUT venture a couple of streets away from the main tourist area and you’ll find delicious fish, catchupa (a local maize based stew) and chicken at very reasonable prices.
3. Everyone gets sick: a complete over exaggeration, but you’d be forgiven thinking this is true if you read Facebook and TripAdvisor alone. True, you CAN get a really bad stomach upset if you drink the tap water. It’s desalinated; not drinking quality. But all ice cubes are made from bottled water and all salad is washed with that too in the regularly inspected hotels and restaurants. It’s very easy to get contagious and fly-borne diseases from eating at hotel buffets. Just think it through: food sits out for hours, often in the open air. Hundreds of guests handle the same serving utensils, and breathe/cough over the food. It takes ONE person to not wash their hands … It’s also very easy to come from a cold country to 28 degrees and overdo the sun (the wind makes the temperature comfortable, but the sun is blazing away!) and also the drinking. Too much alcohol, too much sun, sudden temperature change and not drinking enough water can really make you poorly. Flying can also make you sick, and disease spreads quickly on planes crammed with many passengers. So don’t blame Cabo Verde. Take sensible precautions, drink bottled water, avoid buffets, don’t overdo things.
4. It’s not safe to go out: complete and utter hogwash. This is a myth that sadly is perpetuated by some tour operating hotel groups and airlines. After all, they want you to spend money on trips and transfers with them, and to eat and drink only in the resort. Truth is, it is safer to walk around an island like Sal or Boa Vista than most cities in Europe. Crime rates here are exceptionally low, people are very friendly, and the prison serving three islands currently has an inmate population below 200 souls. With only around 40,000 permanent residents, Sal for example enjoys very low crime rates. Everyone knows everyone and you can’t get away with anything: someone would tell your mother. Drug usage is low (except for some recreational cannabis) and the drunk people tend, unfortunately, to be holidaymakers. Sal and Boa Vista are safe to walk around if you take sensible precautions like keeping an eye on your bag and not leaving phones and wallet unattended. Even as a single woman, at night.
5. All these street people hassle you: yes, when you get out of a taxi, you may be approached by several men (typically) claiming to be your omelette chef on his day off and wanting to show you their mother’s market. They probably do NOT work at your hotel; they see your wristbands! A polite “nao, obrigada” is enough for the vast majority to leave you be with a smile and “no stress”. Cover up or remove your wristband when you go into town.
6. There’s nothing to do outside the hotel: poppycock. How about quad biking off road all day, floating in salt lakes below sea level in a volcano’s crater, great fishing, sailing out to see whales, turtles and dolphins, snorkelling, scuba diving, paddle boarding, surfing, windsurfing, kite surfing, visiting Shell Cemetery Beach, walking for miles along Kite Beach, a driving tour of the island, seeing fishermen bringing in the catch and haggling over the price of tuna, dining in a different place each day for breakfast, lunch and dinner, hiking an extinct volcano, ½ day island tour, lemon sharks swimming around your legs, visiting a turtle hatchery, ziplining, taking an electric bike tour, seeing a mirage in the desert, seeing spectacular volcanic coastal scenery, dipping in a natural pool, gazing down at the blue eye in a sea cave, seeing the early Portuguese salt mines and industrial architecture at Pedro da Lune, walking the rescued dogs at OSPA, watching leatherback turtles lay their eggs on the beach (in season), visiting the botanic gardens and mini zoo, playing 18 holes of golf, dancing the night away, listening to Morna … and that’s just Sal. Get out there, support local businesses (and save a lot of money) by booking tours and activities with licensed taxi drivers and tour guides.
7. It’s not very green, is it? No. Though several of the other islands, Santo Antao and Fogo in particular, even have forests Sal and Boa Vista are desert islands. Water is a very precious commodity. Luckily the lush lawns you see around hotels and resorts are kept so green using waste, or grey water.
8. You’ll be bitten alive by mosquitoes: yes, mossies love some people (indeed this writer) and you need to take the usual precautions. Put on a high DEET concentration mosquito repellent at dusk and dawn (if you’re up that early). Use mosquito nets or screens at night. Mosquitoes are less prevalent than in Southeast Asia or South America, and in winter we rarely bother with repellent.
9. Where are all the animals? Again, desert islands folks. You’re not going to be going on safari here.
10. All the poor stray dogs … Though you’ll see dogs roaming free and begging around restaurants, they may not be as poor as you think. Several great charities run neutering, rescue, rehoming/adoption programmes. Many shops and restaurants feed them (see bowls of kibble and water outside). On the whole, the dogs are treated pretty well and will not be the disease ridden, emaciated tick carriers you can see even in parts of Europe.
So come on in folks, the water’s warm.
